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Author Topic: C5/C4 behind 2.8/2.9/4.0, Swap list.  (Read 1360 times)
Pat
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« on: May 14, 2008, 08:40:43 PM »

Use the 2.8L C5 flex plate, flex plate to crank spacer, 2.8L C5 torque converter. You can use an A4Ld spacer. Just make sure the flexplate locating ring isn't broken on it, as this is common with A4Ld spacers. It all bolts up. Lengthen the rear drive shaft, shorten the front if you don't get the C5 shafts. You'll want the C5 shifters too, and probably the 83-85 trans cross member. Best way to do it is to get a parts rig. Either leave it with no kick down linkage, or you'll have to rig some sort of a cable up.

Same for 4.0. You have to use a 4.0 auto starter to clear the 4.0 block. You will want to use a 4.0 manual trans computer, or it will idle high from not seeing the NSS or may throw a code on 1993 and later rigs. My 1992 had the tcc lockup and 3-4 shift servos unplugged and the check engine light was not on.

If you are going to use a case fill C4 trans you will need all of the above plus a C5 2.8L bell housing to put onto the C4. You cannot use a pan fill C4 for the V6 swap.

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1985 BII Eddie Bauer 302/C5/1350M/Locked D35/Aussie Locked Explorer 8.8/4"ish of Tuff Country lift/34x10.50x15 LTB's... Some assembly still required.
1992 Explorer XLT 4 door 4.0/M5OD/1354E/D35/Trash Locked 8.8 with 3.73s/Manual hubs/Dynomax cat back/31x10.50 Wild Country TXR's.... Some assembly still required.
mike327
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« Reply #1 on: November 09, 2008, 05:55:31 AM »

Pic's of the flywheel and spacer a4ld and c5.


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themadman420
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« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2009, 03:23:26 AM »

 
IF ANYONE HAS A FISHING POLE IN THEIR TRUCK RIGHT NOW, THEY NEED TO LET ME KNOW right AWAY.
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I'd Rather push a Ford,
Than drive a chevy.
1989 BroncoII XL 5spd
3"BL 31"x10.5" BFG AT's
Rancho RS5000 F&R K&N
Branman250
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« Reply #3 on: January 07, 2009, 07:09:52 PM »

WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT? Also caps isn't needed unless yelling.
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89' Bronco 2 rebuilt 2.9 with a mild cam/rebuilt c5/bw1350/locked up 8.8 and d35. 4 inch rough country lift and 2 inch bl all sittin on 33 inch buckshots

http://broncoii.org/forum/index.php?topic=1536.75
Bob Myers
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« Reply #4 on: January 14, 2009, 07:11:08 PM »

Contrary to what people have said, you can use an A4ld flexplate, with  A4ld spacer, and a manual 2.9 starter combination on a 4.0.
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'88 Bronco II, Dana44 front, EB9" rear/4.88/Detroit lockers both ends, M5OD
gary65
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« Reply #5 on: February 15, 2009, 10:25:45 AM »

ok how about the wires  are they a direct plug in also  or will i have to splice
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what are all the extra nuts and bolts for,oh well it's in ........let's go.
Bob Myers
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« Reply #6 on: February 15, 2009, 06:35:31 PM »

If you had a manual 2.9 in place and swapped in a 4.0 the wiring from the original 2.9 will work, single wire. A spacer available at autozone or advanced auto parts that is app .090 thick is necessary to give proper depth.
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'88 Bronco II, Dana44 front, EB9" rear/4.88/Detroit lockers both ends, M5OD
gary65
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« Reply #7 on: February 15, 2009, 10:37:00 PM »

C5 trannie behind a 2.9  will I have to splice wires or is it plug and play  thanks
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what are all the extra nuts and bolts for,oh well it's in ........let's go.
Bob Myers
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« Reply #8 on: February 16, 2009, 04:41:00 AM »

C5 trannie behind a 2.9  will I have to splice wires or is it plug and play  thanks
There are no wires on a C5, only one vacuum line
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'88 Bronco II, Dana44 front, EB9" rear/4.88/Detroit lockers both ends, M5OD
holshotracer
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« Reply #9 on: July 02, 2009, 05:34:34 PM »

Has any figured out a way for a kick down cable? I'm swapping out my M5ORD-1 for a C5 and was wondering if any one hooked one up so i could get some ideas. Will a shifter for a C4 will work for a C5?
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Pat
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Tumwater, Wa


« Reply #10 on: July 02, 2009, 08:19:25 PM »

Kick down arm from an A4LD swapped onto the C5 and use an A4LD cable flipped around to the back side of the trans.



Yes, a C4 shifter will work.
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1985 BII Eddie Bauer 302/C5/1350M/Locked D35/Aussie Locked Explorer 8.8/4"ish of Tuff Country lift/34x10.50x15 LTB's... Some assembly still required.
1992 Explorer XLT 4 door 4.0/M5OD/1354E/D35/Trash Locked 8.8 with 3.73s/Manual hubs/Dynomax cat back/31x10.50 Wild Country TXR's.... Some assembly still required.
holshotracer
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« Reply #11 on: July 07, 2009, 02:52:44 PM »

Ok thanks alot. waiting for the tranny to come back from being rebuild and it looks like i'm making a trip to the u- pull it yard.
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holshotracer
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« Reply #12 on: July 26, 2009, 05:32:35 PM »

I ran into a couple of problem with my swap.
The difference between a C5 and a M5ORD-1 is 4.75" from bell housing to t-case mount
The shifter for a manual shift 1354 is too long.

And the other problem was the dip stick. My rig has the A/C box and the C5 dipstick comes up right where to box is. I'm going have to get a non A/C box.


I used the trans cross member that i had and only had to drill two holes in the passenger frame rail and cut a little off of the cross member.
The hole for the drivers side is all ready in the frame rail.

Getting at the top t case bolts are easy
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holshotracer
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« Reply #13 on: July 25, 2010, 11:11:06 AM »

What are you guys running for t-case shifters? I tried to modified my 1354 shifter but it won't work, it ether to long or too short.
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Pat
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Tumwater, Wa


« Reply #14 on: July 26, 2010, 06:24:30 AM »

I haven't put my 1354/C5 together yet. I'm gonna use a 1350/C5 shifter, but I need to get a C5/TK4/5/FM146 1350 t-case shift arm, which is shorter than the FM146,M5OD/A4LD arm.
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1985 BII Eddie Bauer 302/C5/1350M/Locked D35/Aussie Locked Explorer 8.8/4"ish of Tuff Country lift/34x10.50x15 LTB's... Some assembly still required.
1992 Explorer XLT 4 door 4.0/M5OD/1354E/D35/Trash Locked 8.8 with 3.73s/Manual hubs/Dynomax cat back/31x10.50 Wild Country TXR's.... Some assembly still required.
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